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easier to pull off the deck if the core decided it was going to be clingy.
When I was satisfied that I had made all the necessary cuts to pull the deck I found that it was still clinging hard and couldn't easily lift it off. Very surprising given that it was pretty clear that any core underneath was very soft. I took a wide chisel and scraped off some of the remaining teak seam compound on the deck thinking I missed some fasteners that were holding the deck down. I partially solved the mystery when I found a bunch of 1/2 bolt heads underneath the seam compound that corresponded to three mahogany beams bolted to the underside of the deck running athwartship. I always assumed they were original, but never paid much attention. However, with the seam compound scraped off I could see the bolt heads right on the surface of the deck. I can only assume that a previous owner bolted them on prior to installing the teak in hope of stiffening the deck (again instead of addressing the core problem).
With the teak planking off and nothing to help stiffen the surface I could see that the beams would actually move, so they were only bolted on, not glued to make them part of the structure (and increasing the deck's stiffness). Ultimately I cut around the bolts to pull the top skin of the deck off, but it was still holding on hard. I finally just said f-it and tore the thing up with as much force as possible thinking that rebuilding the entire deck would not be the end of the world.
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Anyway, I ripped up the rest of the deck and found 6 of these hole saw fixes and one for what I assume is the original pedestal mount location (at some point in the boat's history, the pedestal steering while not original, was moved to the forward end of the cockpit). Unbolting the beams from below proved surprisingly easy considering (my definition of easy has changed drastically over the course of this re-build) and now there is much better access under the deck.
The core was as expected a smelly, mushy, stew and was best scooped with a garden trowel. Once I cleaned and vacuumed everything up I was left with a swiss cheese like bottom skin of the deck and the solid glass plug for the rudder post. Knowing that I will be glassing in a new rudder tube and glassing it structurally to the deck, I cut out a big square where the old rudder tube passed.
From there it was pretty much standard re-core prep work; tape all the holes from the underside to keep epoxy from dripping down, brace the underside so when weight for laminations is added the deck won't sag, and then sand everything down with 60 grit paper. I didn't bevel the perimeter because I don't see the need to maintain the same deck height, I will probably lay in 2-3 layers of biaxial to build it up flush with the perimeter and then add 2-3 layers more on top of the perimeter to tie it all together.
I finished the day off by mixing up a small batch of epoxy and filled in the bigger holes with 2 layers of biaxial fabric and then thickened up the remainder of the batch and filled the myriad of holes in the deck. I left the big square hole as is for now while I figure out the new rudder tube arrangement. All in all, it was much more work than I had anticipated, but at least I can start rebuilding now. Stay tuned...
Glad to see you're still at it, Matt! Cold has about shut me down too, but I've made some progress in the cleaning up and stripping hardware off the deck.
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